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In September ’05, after staying in La Paz, Bolivia, at 12,600 feet, I spent two days at the Esmeralda Hotel (phone in Bolivia 010-221-36017, fax 36041 [from the U.S., phone ++591-221-36017] or visit www.hotelesmeralda.com) in Coroico, elevation 4,800 feet, to get warm and recover from the altitude.

My old guidebooks warned that the La Paz-Coroico highway was too dangerous for tourists, but I had read that the road had recently been widened and paved and was safer.

The new highway is not complete, and just as it reaches the exciting part of the descent, traffic is diverted...

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At midnight on New Year’s Eve, the orchestra was playing “Auld Lang Syne” as we sailed the South Atlantic on our way to the White Continent aboard M.V. Discovery.

Antarctica is truly magnificent, with mountains, sea, snow, icebergs, glaciers and ice packs but not a bit of green. It is a land of breathtaking beauty, where we experienced unexpected howling winds, snowstorms, sea lanes blocked by ice, and dazzling sunlit panoramas. The only settlements are small, isolated scientific stations and penguin colonies, both of which we visited on 12-man Zodiacs (rubber rafts).

We...

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At the base of a pyramid near Cairo, Egypt, in January ’05, a young boy approached my wife, Mary, and me and asked if we would buy souvenirs. We smiled and said “No.” He thanked us for not ignoring him, gave Mary a small turquoise beetle and said, “You have a nice day. Smile at everyone you meet. This is for you for good luck. Good-bye.”

A little later we decided we hadn’t bought quite enough junk for one day, so we sought out this nice young fellow and made a purchase from him. It was a very harmonious transaction.

Suddenly some big guys were hauling the kid off. They...

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On our trip to Australia in October several years ago, we spent two days in Melbourne, staying at the Hilton. We enjoyed this conservative, most British of Down Under cities with its many parks (we especially liked the Royal Botanic Gardens), museums, cultural events and attractive buildings.

A highlight was dinner on the Colonial Tramcar Restaurant (Box 372, South Melbourne, Victoria, 3205, Australia; phone +61 3 9696 4000, e-mail reservations@tram restaurant.com.au or visit www. tramrestaurant.com.au), one of several moving trolleys with lovely décor and great food, service and...

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A recent television program listed things one should have for traveling, including the best shoes, the best white shirt, the best go-everywhere black pants, the best backpack, etc. What was omitted was something I consider essential: a Mobal GSM phone (Mobal Communications, 171 Madison Ave., Ste. 300, New York, NY 10016; phone 888/888-9162 or visit www.mobalrental.com — offices in the U.K. and Japan too).

The Mobal GSM dual-band phone, which costs about $52, works in over 140 countries. There is no contract to be signed, and there are no roaming charges. In fact, to my knowledge,...

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My husband, Jim, and I took the trip of a lifetime in August ’05. It was both an experience and an education.

Since selling our business six years ago, we have taken two or three trips each year to exotic destinations. Thus far, most of our travels have been to Asian countries. Because of the distance, we typically stay a month at each place. While working, we had been limited to shorter trips to less distant destinations.

We always travel with groups of no more than a dozen persons. As we journeyed, I made it a point to ask members of our groups which countries they enjoyed...

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To sailors in the 18th and 19th centuries, Valparaiso, Chile, shone as one of South America’s beacons of light. The central city, embraced by steep hills and a beautiful bay, bustled with prosperity. Above, elegant wooded neighborhoods housed the merchants and bankers and fleet owners. Sailors’ sea chanteys celebrate this port’s magnificence, remember its sexy women and raucous waterfront bars, and express a yearning to return.

Today, 100-year-old cable cars continue to carry pedestrians from the central city to elevated neighborhoods, and markets that have thrived “forever”...

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I found out that many brands of shoes have a steel plate in them which sets off the alarm at airport security stations. I now wear shoes with no plates. At the end of 2004 I went through three airports in one month with no problems!

JEAN CATER Dover, NJ