For pure pageantry and nationalistic bravado, visit the border post ceremony in Wagah, a town half in India and half in Pakistan, at sunrise or sunset. This is the only road crossing between the two countries, and twice daily crowds gather to witness the ceremonial opening or closing of the border.
My husband, Clyde, and I attended the ceremony on Feb. 26, 2007. We flew to Amritsar from Delhi that afternoon, checked into our hotel, the CJ International (July ’07, pg. 62), and...
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