B&Bs in Italy: BedinArt, Bonapace Porta Nolana, Residenza del Doge

My friend Kathy, a computer whiz, went online and checked locations and ratings from the past guests for bed-and-breakfasts in ITALY. For our March ’07 trip we stayed in Rome, Naples and Venice, and all three B&Bs were great and affordable.

BedinArt (Via In Selci, 63, 00184, Roma, Italy; phone +39 06 4885598 or 339-3232975 or visit www.bedinart.it) is located one stop from the Termi on the B Line of the metro in Rome. It’s a one-block walk from the Cavorn metro stop, and the Colosseum was one stop away. There were buses and restaurants all over, yet on this side street it was quiet.

We stayed in a 3-room apartment overlooking a courtyard with a garden and fountain. There were two bathrooms to share plus a small furnished kitchen and a large living room with a computer to use.

The rate, which we split, was about

$30 per night. $90 would have rented the whole place for the night. They took credit cards. The Continental morning meal furnished was ample, with pastries, juice, milk and cereal. We rarely saw the host, who lived elsewhere.

• In Naples we stayed in a beautifully furnished apartment with antiques, Bonapace Porta Nolana (Via S. Cosmo fuori Porta Nolana, 4, 80142 Napoli, Italy; phone +39 081 6584014, fax +39 081 2144085 or visit www.bonapaceaccomodation. com/portanolana.asp) — about a 10minute walk from the train station.

The neighborhood is run-down, but the 3-floor apartment building, which has several rooms each with private bath, is secured by a locked courtyard gate, a lock on the door to the apartment stairs and another to the apartment itself. We were given keys. It was very quiet inside.

The cost was about $35 per night. The huge breakfast, made to order, was worth almost that for two people. Credit cards were accepted. The host was very nice and informative.

• After taking a sleeper train from Naples to Venice, we arrived at 5:30

a.m. and (after waiting until 9 a.m.) telephoned as directed. After winding through the narrow lanes and bridges, we arrived at Bed & Breakfast Residenza del Doge (Castello 6114, Borgoloco Pompeo Molmenti, Santa Maria Formosa, 30124 Venice, Italy)

— about a 5-minute walk from St. Mark’s Square. Gondolas floated by our bedroom.

The lovely young couple who own this B&B have furnished it with expensive antiques. They live on one side of the apartment, with a living room and a kitchen between. (They told us they would be opening a second B&B near St. Mark’s that would be furnished with modern décor.) They had all sorts of maps, books and information on Venice.

This too was $35 per night for all per room; we had to share the bathroom. Credit cards were accepted. The breakfast was fantastic — to-order omelets, breakfast pastries, cereal and juice. Just ask; they probably have it or will get it for the next night.

We reserved this and the Naples B&B through www.venere.com. I will use this service from now on everywhere.

We may have just been lucky in our choices, but all were far better than any I have stayed in before, and we had personal attention. By splitting the per-night charges, each of us paid less for the lodging for the whole trip than I was quoted for hotels for one night.

JEAN NEW

Alexander, AK