Favorite freighter lines

Since 1988 I have taken 52 voyages on 34 cargo ships of all types, some for as long as four months. This is in addition to 32 cruise ship voyages.

People I meet who learn of my mode of travel — freighters — invariably ask which lines I like the best and what I recommend. Let me preface the following remarks by saying that each voyage, even on the same ship, is different. The variables include officers, crew, destinations, the vessel itself, accommodations and that unpredictable: weather.

Another variable that should be mentioned is one’s fellow travelers. They can be, as I have encountered on occasion, “nightmare passengers” or the finest people you’ve ever met or anything in between.

Most important is the captain, who sets not only the rules but the mood. Perhaps second in importance is the cook, although I must say that on one of the most enjoyable voyages I’ve had, the cook was the worst.

Rather than one feature or negative aspect, it is the combination of all of the above that can make an especially good experience. Taking all of this into consideration, I will share with ITN readers my special favorite freighter lines and why they are my favorites.

First, as anyone who knows me would guess, is Grimaldi Group (Naples, Italy; www.grimaldi.napoli.it). Although the ships — ro/ros and con/ros — are different, that is, not configured like the more traditional container vessels and bulk/general cargo ships, the pluses overcome things such as the high freeboard (distance from the sea), the unique accommodation house and the shape of the ship (like a huge moving box).

On these ships I know I will be comfortable, eat well and will laugh a lot. Their routes and frequency can allow for some creative and practical itineraries for a passenger.

The freighter traveler has a far different experience on Italian ships as opposed to other vessels, most frequently those with German officers. In the latter it is casual. Rarely does one see a uniform. The meals are served as one arrives at the table. Informality is the key.

On Grimaldi ships, however, it is company policy that the officers are always in uniform. Mealtimes are special. All are expected to be on time for dinner and supper and are not seated until Comandante appears. He orchestrates the mood, which can be exuberant, very vocal and fun or, conversely, depending on his temperament, more sedate, with thoughtful conversation.

I assure the prospective passenger that this is not inhibiting, nor does it feel formal. The warmth and good nature will make the visitor feel at home.

With the variables mentioned before, the one constant with Grimaldi vessels is that the food will range from very good to divine, and there will be plenty of it, expertly and gracefully served by the steward. Many of the stewards were formerly waiters on cruise ships. They are the best I have ever encountered and have a finesse that is entertainment in itself.

The meals are enjoyed at a relaxing pace, in accordance with their importance in the Italian seaman’s life. They preserve the traditions and feeling of family as much as possible in the separation they have from home.

I had an occasion to again sail aboard a Grimaldi ship, Gran Bretagna, in October ’05. I needed to get from Antwerp, Belgium, to Italy, and Grimaldi is ideal for segments of its European service (if space is available, of course, as priority is given to those booking the full 35-day voyage).

These ships never fail to impress me with their warmth and friendliness. From the crew member who cheerfully takes my luggage (not a few bags) on the ramp to the mate who introduces me to “my” steward, all are gracious and, most importantly, welcoming. The Grimaldi experience is a must for the freighter enthusiast because of the standard they set for the merchant ship passenger.

Another of my special favorites is the Great Lakes route done by PZM (Polish Steamship Co., Szczecin, Poland), which I booked through The Cruise People (see below). PZM’s five newer bulk carriers were built in Japan, are registered in Cyprus and manned by Poles — typical of the mixture one finds in shipping. The usual trade is from the Netherlands to Cleveland and Bums Harbor near Chicago. After discharging her steel cargo, she is “tramp” and normally will load grain for some port in Europe or North Africa.

The transit of the St. Lawrence Seaway offers spectacular scenery, more than that of the normal freighter experience, and the multilock process is fascinating to watch. If you are worried about being bored on a ship, this is the route for you. You will wish for stamina so as not to miss a thing.

PZM’s Polish crew members are most gracious and are happy to have passengers aboard. The captain will provide various materials to explain what you are seeing. The food is good, with consistently the best soups I’ve ever had. The cooks I’ve sailed with were also creative bakers, making bread and a variety of cakes that were eagerly anticipated.

Those interested in this type of travel should, of course, study the Internet. There are few agents who book freighters. In the U.S., there is Freighter World Cruises (Pasadena, CA; 800/531-7774 or www.freighterworld.com), TravLtips (Flushing, NY; 800/872-8584 or www.travltips.com) and Maris Freighter & Specialty Cruises (Westport, CT; 800/996-2747 or www.freightercruises.com). In the U.K. there is The Cruise People, Ltd. (London, England; phone 0171-723-2450 or, toll-free in U.K., 0800-526 313 or visit www.tcpltd.com. . . or phone, in North America, 800/268-6523 or, in Toronto, 416/444-2410).

The greatest number of passenger-carrying vessels comprises container ships, most frequently having German officers. They are used to having “human cargo” and have routes that can take you virtually anywhere in the world. I’ve been told by numerous seamen that they are entertained, in one way or another (!), by having passengers on board. It breaks the monotony of their long months at sea.

I have learned many virtues in this sea life I lead. Among them are tolerance, patience, flexibility and the joys of solitude. The most important, in my opinion, is maintaining a sense of humor, first about oneself and, next, about the situation you find yourself in. So sign on and enjoy.

Happy sailing!

JUDI SULLIVAN

Crestline, CA