Sri Lanka with Ceylon Express International

Varini de Silva of Ceylon Express International (9542 Dumbreck Dr., Huntington Beach, CA 92646; 800/423-9566 or www.ceylonexpress.com) carefully planned my trip so I would see Sri Lanka at the time of the Kandy Perahera, continuing from there on a ’round-the-world trip. She arranged for part of the tour money go to the Foundation for Coexistence, which offers hope to the people of Sri Lanka for a speedy recovery from the devastating tsunami of December 2004.

Words are inadequate to describe this island’s natural beauty and tranquility. Our group of eight traveled in a small van with our tour guide (who spoke excellent English), a driver and a young man who helped with the luggage and other chores. The 13-day tour, Aug. 7-19, ’05, cost $3,895 including air from Los Angeles on Malaysia Air and first-class accommodations.

There are many Buddhist, Christian and Hindu festivals in Sri Lanka (based on the lunar calendar, the dates of most vary from year to year), with the huge Kandy Esala Perahera the most important and spectacular. In my view, it is the most awesome parade anywhere in the world!

In the continuous 10-day/10-night festival, thousands of dancers, drummers and temple chieftains take part in the peraheras (processions) with floats and 67 magnificently decorated elephants. The highlight is the mighty tusker elephant Maligawa carrying the golden relic casket, which enshrines the Sacred Tooth of the Buddha. We had special seats in the balcony of the Queen’s Hotel to watch the parade.

Highlights of the trip included the Cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka, comprising three ancient capitals of the island: Anuradhapura (fifth century B.C. to 10th century A.D.), Polonnaruwa (10th-12th centuries A.D.) and Kandy (16th-19th centuries). There are five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the triangle.

We visited the site of the bo tree, under which the Buddha found enlightenment, and I was blessed by a Buddhist priest who wrapped a sacred thread around my wrist. The Kelaniya Raja maha Vihara temple, believed to have been visited by the Buddha 2,500 years ago, is an archaeologist’s dream. And the Rock Fortress at Sigiriya is an awesome monolith transformed into a city in the clouds; the Lion’s Paw entrance at the summit leads to frescoes of celestial maidens.

What a treat it was to watch groups of elephants at the famous elephant orphanage. I loved it when they crossed the river and emerged very clean, only to roll in the red mud on the other side.

My favorite part of the trip was the parade. My least favorite was the long plane ride getting there, but stops helped to exercise the muscles. I would have preferred more time for shopping, but my pocketbook was grateful there was not more time. Gems were abundant in many cities, and I bought ruby and star sapphire earrings, moonstone earrings and an unset moonstone. Kudos also go to the food, the elephant orphanage and the friendly, helpful people.

The food was excellent — all buffets with choices of Western and Eastern food (curry with hot spices and sugar sweets). We had bottled water at our disposal constantly.

Our driver deserves a great vote of confidence. I myself would not want to drive the narrow roads, full of trucks, bicycles and pedestrians, under any circumstances.

People travel for adventure, ancient sites, historical and cultural memories, culinary pleasures or companionship or to loll on the beach. Sri Lanka has it all! My pleasant memories of this tropical paradise will last a long time.

— MARTHA MANGAN, Santa Cruz, CA