This article appears in our Print Edition, April 2015 -- Page 0
European train travel is easier and better than ever, thanks to faster trains, new routes, and additional amenities to keep you comfortable and entertained on the journey. For me, there's nothing better than stretching out in a quiet car, blitzing through the European countryside, with hours of uninterrupted time to think and write.
Recently I spent seven hours on one of Europe's luxurious bullet trains. At 12:14 p.m., I settled into my seat, and at 12:16 p.m...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, April 2015 -- Page 0
Whether you're a serious athlete or a weekend warrior, those who like to keep their heart pumping while sightseeing have plenty of great options in Europe. From scenic jogs through Stockholm to paddling a boat in Hyde Park to biking through bustling Amsterdam, active travel can be better travel.
Biking not only provides a workout; it's an efficient way to get around. On a well-fitted rental bike, I feel local, efficient, and even smug --...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, April 2015 -- Page 0
A couple of hours north of Lisbon, Coimbra is the Oxford or Cambridge of Portugal -- the home of its most venerable university. It's also the country's easiest-to-enjoy city -- a mini-Lisbon, with everything good about urban Portugal without the intensity of a big metropolis. I couldn't design a more delightful city for a visit.
One of the best activities in Coimbra is wandering the inviting, Arab-flavored old town -- a maze of narrow streets,...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, April 2015 -- Page 0
If you want to eat like a local -- enjoying tasty local specialties economically -- picnic. While I'm the first to admit that restaurant meals are an important aspect of any culture, in Europe I picnic almost daily. This is not solely for budgetary reasons. It's fun to dive into a marketplace and deal with locals in the corner grocery or market. And Europeans are great picnickers. Many picnics become potlucks, resulting in new friends, as well as full stomachs.
To busy...
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April marks the 10th anniversary of the death of John Paul II, one of the most beloved popes of recent times. During his papacy, from 1978 to 2005, he was the highly visible face of the Catholic Churchas it labored to stay relevant in an increasingly secular world. Today, he is commemorated in statues and paintings throughout the great churches of Europe, from the Cathedral of Sevilla to the Basilica of St. Anthony in Padua. When I'm visiting Europe, I...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, April 2015 -- Page 53
Eastern Europe has experienced more change in the last generation than any other corner of Europe. With war-era grandpas now gone, across the former Warsaw Pact zone new museums and memorials deal candidly with the dark side of communism… and fascism before that. And now that the economy is perking up (with European Union help), impressive renovations and infrastructure improvements are springing up across the region. Here’s the latest.
• In Prague, CZECH REPUBLIC,...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, March 2015 -- Page 0
Way back in my student travel days, I discovered a handful of completely offbeat sights that remain among my favorite places in Europe. From sculptures of salt to sculptures of marzipan, from a wall dedicated to love and freedom to chapels decorated with bones, a carefully balanced tour of Europe mixes famous must-see sights with quirky, less familiar places like these.
At the remarkable Wieliczka Salt Mine, just outside Krakow, Poland, there are sculptures...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, March 2015 -- Page 0
While most travelers to Greece head for the islands, I head for the hills -- the mountains and valleys of the Peloponnese. Attached to the rest of Greece by a thin isthmus, this rugged land has always seemed isolated from the rest of the country. And while it holds some of Greece's greatest ancient monuments -- such as Olympia or Mycenae -- there's a lot more to this region.
Start with the Mani Peninsula -- the southern tip of the...
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