Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental
This article appears in our Online Edition, October 2019
A cruise ship offers memorably fantastic views of the classic whitewashed villages of Santorini. Photo by Cameron Hewitt

I've spent the last several decades exploring Europe from every conceivable angle. And this includes checking out Europe the way millions of people do -- from a cruise ship.

I'm not out to promote or put down cruising. For some people it's a great choice, and for others it's not. On the plus side, cruising can be economical, with transportation, a room, and meals all included in one price. It can be ideal for those who want their vacation logistics...

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Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental
This article appears in our Online Edition, October 2019
The island of Grinda holds nostalgia for many Stockholmers, who fondly recall when this was a summer camp island. And it retains that vibe today. Photo by Rick Steves

Stockholm is a highlight of any Scandinavian vacation, but don't discount the variety of fine day trips at the city's doorstep. Within an hour or so of the Swedish capital, you can bask in the opulence of a royal palace, swing through the home and garden of Sweden's greatest sculptor, see ancient rune stones in the country's oldest town, hang with students in a stately university city or island-hop through Stockholm's archipelago.

West of...

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Rick Steves' Europe
This article appears in our Print Edition, October 2019 -- Page 43
Travelers can hop on and off Germany’s sleek InterCity Express trains easily with either a Eurail Global Pass or a German Rail Pass. Photo by Rick Steves

Once an economical and easy way to allow travel around Europe, railpasses over the years had become more of a headache-inducing puzzle. But in 2019, Europe’s railpasses underwent some sweeping changes that have made them an affordable option again and much less confusing to shop for, making me nostalgic for their glory days.

As of this year, “Select Passes” — where you could mix and match countries as you liked to suit your itinerary — are gone. Now, for...

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Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental
This article appears in our Online Edition, September 2019
A walk along Dublin’s O’Connell Street median is filled with history, though the 400-foot spike in the center — called The Spire — is a memorial to nothing. Photo by Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli

A walk through the heart of north Dublin recalls Ireland's long fight for independence, and makes a fine introduction to the historical lay of the land.

Start at the O'Connell Bridge, which spans the River Liffey. The river has long divided the wealthy south side of town from the working-class north side. From the bridge, you can see modern Dublin evolving: A forest of cranes marks building sites all over town.

Leading from the bridge...

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Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental
This article appears in our Online Edition, September 2019
According to tradition, the colors of these Maltese fishing boats represent a fisherman’s home village. Photo by Gretchen Strauch

Sailing into the stony harbor of the island of Malta, surrounded by ramparts and turrets, you realize that this strategic and much fought-over rock midway between Sicily and Africa has had a long and difficult history. But its parade of foreign rulers (Phoenician, Roman, Greek, Arab, Norman, Sicilian and British -- to name a few) make it a fascinating place to explore today.

The imposing capital city of Valletta is a monument to this hard-fought past...

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Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental
This article appears in our Online Edition, September 2019
Travelers can hop on and off Germany’s sleek InterCity Express trains easily with either a Eurail Global Pass or a German Rail Pass. Photo by Rick Steves

Once an economical and easy way to travel around Europe, rail passes over the years had become more of a headache-inducing puzzle. But in 2019, Europe's rail passes underwent some sweeping changes that have made them an affordable option again, and much less confusing to shop for -- and made me nostalgic for their glory days.

As of this year, "Select Passes" -- where you could mix and match countries as you like to suit your itinerary -- are gone. Now, for...

CONTINUE READING »
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental
This article appears in our Online Edition, September 2019
Lace makers on the Venetian island of Burano are proud of their craft tradition. Photo by Rick Steves

Long a city of aristocrats, luxury goods, and trade, Venice has an amazing culture. Its fantasy-world atmosphere of elegant decay is like nowhere else in Europe. But with souvenir hawkers everywhere pushing cheap masks, glassy baubles, and lacy doilies, it can come across as a tacky tourist trap. Look behind those tired clichés, though, and you'll get glimpses of Venice's history.

MASKS

Venice's ubiquitous, ornately decorated masks are...

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Rick Steves' Europe
This article appears in our Print Edition, September 2019 -- Page 40
The Douro’s hillsides are lined with stepped terraces, built over the centuries, and more modern large, smooth terraces, with vines planted in vertical rows. Photos by Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli

An endearing slice of Portugal is the Douro River Valley, the winding, terraced region that produces the country’s beloved port wine. This is Portugal’s answer to Germany’s romantic Rhine River Valley. But, unlike the Rhine, the Douro was never a strategic military location, so, rather than castles and stony ramparts, visitors encounter farms and sleepy villages. The only thing fortified here… is the wine.

The Douro region, where port is produced, stretches...

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