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In the main shopping and tourist area of Bratislava, a fun restaurant with great regional Slovakian dishes is Staroslovenska Krema (Michalska ul. 14-16, Bratislava, Slovakia; visit www staroslovenskakcrma.sk). From a billboard outside, proceed downstairs into a large, multivaulted dining area with long tables in medieval décor.

I got a huge helping of best-ever, melt-in-the-mouth Wiener schnitzel with fresh veggies, and my wife had delicious “Princess” chicken with peaches. We also shared a huge plate of bryndzové halus’ky, a traditional treat of small potato dumplings, bacon bits...

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In August of 2004 we booked the trip “Athens, the Greek Islands and Beyond” for June 4-26, ’05, with Grand Circle Travel. The total cost for two was $7,596.80. We were told that if we paid early in advance we could save $398 and that paying in advance would “lock in the cost of the trip,” so we paid the full cost in advance. However, we received a letter dated Jan. 19, ’05, from Grand Circle stating that we owed $110 as a “fuel surcharge.”

We went to the Grand Circle Travel Handbook and found the following under the subheading Ways to Save: “Lock in the cost of your trip. Pay in...

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by Arline Wills, Lynnfield, MA

It had been 20 years since our first visit to Portugal. When we returned in September ’04 we found that not a lot had changed, especially in the northern area. Women still carry baskets and bundles on their heads, men are seen leading donkeys laden with wood or market produce, and elderly widows are still all in black from head to toe. However, since becoming part of the European Union, Portugal has seen a great deal more road building than we found in 1974 and rivers are now navigable due to the dams and locks built for that purpose.

As we had...

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El Salvador is the smallest, most densely populated country in Central America, but it is bypassed by most group tour companies. In April ’05, I was lucky enough to find the “golden ticket” that got me not just into the country but entry into homes, social programs and even the American Embassy.

Global Awareness Through Experience, or GATE (phone 608/791-5283, fax 608/782-6301, e-mail gate@fspa.org or visit www.gate-travel.org), has been offering cultural-immersion programs in El Salvador since 1992. The company offers similar programs in Guatemala, Mexico and Eastern Europe.

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My husband, Stanley, and I traveled with Vantage Deluxe World Travel (90 Canal St., Boston, MA 02114; 888/982-6824) in April and May 2006.

We were supposed to have a 2-week river cruise on their “Eastern Europe and the Black Sea” tour, April 13-26. We opted for the post extension Transylvania excursion as well, three nights in Brasov, Romania. When that was over, we traveled from Bucharest to Berlin to begin our second tour with Vantage. It was called “Historic Cities of Eastern Europe” and originated from the U.S. on April 27.

Well, Mother Nature had other ideas, and the...

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A reader recently “fumed” about speed traps in New Zealand after receiving a $25 fine for exceeding the posted 100 km/h speed limit by 10 km/h (Oct. ’06, pg. 79).

$25? Just wait until you get to Switzerland, where exceeding the posted limit by as little as either 2 or 3 km/h (depending on the officer’s equipment) incurs a fine much heftier than $25.

Let’s be prudent motorists and good ambassadors. LORENZ RYCHNER Denver, CO

Six of us had several delightful days in May ’05 doing excursions from Florence in a 6-passenger Mercedes minivan with tour guide Dr. Marcello Grandini (Frazione Padule 109/A, 50039 Vicchio-Firenze, Italy; phone/fax 011-39-055-8407830 or e-mail marcello.tourguide@tiscali.it).

Marcello is extremely knowledgeable and well trained and speaks excellent English. He took us on full-day excursions to Pisa, Lucca and the hill towns of Tuscany (such as San Gimignano, Volterra, Montepulciano, etc.). We paid €375 (about $125 a couple) for the day and considered it well worth it.

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On a South American trip in November ’04, we attended a tango show at El Querandi (Perú 302 [C1067AAH] Buenos Aires, Argentina; phone/fax [54/11] 5199-1770 or visit www.querandi.com.ar). It was arranged through our hotel and cost $40-$50 for the show and dinner.

About two-thirds of the performance was dancing and showed how tango dancing has evolved through the years. The dancing was very much in the traditional tango style with all its sensuality. The orchestra was also superb.

We also encountered several excellent tango dancers busking on the pedestrian street and in the...

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