Money changer lesson in Laos

The tour books we read seemed to discourage the use of ATMs in Luang Prabang, Laos, especially by folks like us who would be traveling for six months and couldn’t afford to have their card chewed up at the beginning of their trip. 

In November 2013 we found few ATMs in that city, but there were money changers on every block, so we approached the one closest to the lodging where we would be staying for the next 30 days. 

He could exchange $200, no problem. In return, we would receive LAK1,576,000 (near $197). He counted and recounted a huge stack of old, weathered bills, and we thought to ourselves that we might need a wheelbarrow.

With pockets full of money, we then walked to a lovely French bakery for breakfast. Afterward, we returned to our guest house and thought it would be a good idea to count our remaining kip. We couldn’t believe that we were LAK500,000 ($62) short. We could attribute this only to the money changer. 

What to do? We had nothing to lose by confronting the money changer and asking for our missing kip. He remembered us and sheepishly asked to see our money. We told him that that was ridiculous and he could count his money and easily see the “oversight.” He asked us to return at 1 p.m. 

We fully expected him to be gone when we returned. Surprisingly, he was still there and handed over our money without question. His explanation was that he had made a mistake.

When he initially exchanged our money, we were unfamiliar with Laotian kip, so we would not have been able to recount it. Also, he gave us the pile of money in mixed denominations.

When we next use a money changer, we will not exchange so many dollars in one transaction. Also, no matter what, we will count the money in front of him immediately.

We visited Luang Prabang, a city heavily influenced by the French, two years before and loved it so much, we decided to return for a longer stay. This one negative experience has not dampened our fondness for this charming UNESCO World Heritage Site. We found the people to be lovely and accommodating, especially when we ventured beyond the hustle and bustle of the tourist zone.

CAROLE SHEREDA

Livingston, TX