Bolzano delights

Once a year, I travel to my favorite country: Italy. During my 2011 trip, I visited Bolzano, May 15-18.

Located very close to Austria, Bolzano is 70% German-speaking; the signs are in German, and the architecture is decidedly German. The town’s main attraction is the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, home to “Ötzi the Iceman,” but the area has so much else to offer, especially if you like being outdoors. The mountainous setting is beautiful.

For me, part of Bolzano’s appeal is the impressive, 100-year-old, five-story Parkhotel Laurin (Via Laurin Strasse 4, I-39100 Bolzano, Italy; phone +39 0471 311000), located a five-minute walk from the train station. Definitely one of my all-time favorite hotels, it has old-world charm, old-growth trees and mature grounds with a pool tucked away in a back corner.

The staff is marvelous. The rooms are large, with spiffy bathrooms. My single cost €93 (near $121) per night. The breakfast, included, is the most extensive and delicious ever. I enjoyed thick pieces of German-style bread (baked with salt, unlike bland, salt-less Italian bread) with butter and homemade jams.

On a previous trip, I discovered Hopfen & Co. (Piazza delle Erbe 17, Bolzano; phone 0471 300788), located on a corner of Piazza Erbe. A favorite with locals, it’s well known for its home-brewed beer. I never drink beer, but I tried a Radler — half beer, half lemonade and served in a tall, narrow glass with a handle (€2 for a small). It’s not too sweet and has just a hint of lemon taste. Now I have one whenever I eat there.

There is an English menu available. I ordered the “Rice Pan” (€7.90, or $10), the German equivalent of risotto, this one prepared with wild mushrooms and two small pieces of tender, juicy beef on top. To one side was a small bunch of arugula, which mixed nicely with the rice.

I walked along a walking/biking path along the Talvera River. The hillsides were covered with green grass, and lining the wide cinder path were about 300 sycamore (plane) trees, providing good shade from the sun. In addition, there was a mixture of lush plantings, with flowers in bloom. I passed a pastoral field upon which sat Castel Mareccio, with its prominent, turreted corners.

I learned about two separate gondola stations within 10 minutes’ walk of the hotel. In the morning, I walked to the train station, turned left and, lo and behold, one of the gondola stations appeared. Only a few years old, it was of modern design and quite impressive.

With eight “glass bubbles,” the wait to ascend or descend was only three to four minutes (€3.50 round trip). Each car seemed to hold about 25 people.

After leaving a great view of Bolzano behind us, we passed through layers of mountains and rode to the top in 15-17 minutes. Nestled among the forested hills were large guest houses and many walking trails. The location was spectacular and the air absolutely perfect. I was so glad not to have missed this experience, and I can hardly wait to try the ride from the second gondola station next time.

MARILYN HILL
Portland, OR