Remarkable Rome
What can one say about Rome’s charms that hasn’t been said before? It seems that every sight has been seen, written about and filmed. Yet, as much as I thought it would be another overcrowded European city, Rome captivated my imagination and fueled a mad dash to see everything possible.
Our enchantment began almost immediately upon checking in at the posh Hotel Eden (Via Ludovisi 49), where my husband and I and our two friends stayed for three nights, courtesy of Starwood hotel points, during September ’09. (The rate for a double room is €342 [near $477] per night.)
The aristocratic hotel, built in 1889, was originally developed to service visitors arriving in Rome via the new Termini railway station. This location placed us strategically on the edge of the Spanish Steps and the Villa Borghese.
Having arrived from the US in the early morning, we staggered out of the hotel, sans nap, into streaming sunshine and noticed a large gathering at the foot of the Spanish Steps.
Descending, we found the beguiling Fontana della Barcaccia (Fountain of the Old Boat), built in 1627. Fed by an extensive network of aqueducts, as all of Rome’s fountains are, this one purportedly contains the sweetest water in all of Rome. To the consternation of my traveling companions, I bent down and drank heartily of the clear, fresh water. Despite their concerns, I suffered no ill effects.
In the evening we continued our explorations, heading south from the hotel and pausing frequently to gaze in wonderment at the dramatic architecture and art that was simply part of the landscape.
As we walked, we heard the faint sound of cascading water in the distance. Rounding a corner, we suddenly faced the torrents of water erupting from the Trevi Fountain.
The liquid panoramic display featured Baroque sculptures headed by the figure of Oceanus, god of all water, surfing through his 65-foot-wide kingdom of rock and water. This fountain drew us back for several visits.
Finding a wonderful sidewalk café near the fountain — Ristorante Quirino (Via delle Muratte 84), which specializes in traditional Sicilian dishes — we enjoyed a superlative dinner of grilled vegetable antipasto, fried calamari, grilled fish and fresh pasta for $50 per person, with wine.
During our short two-day stay, we admired the open dome of the Pantheon, peeked at the handiwork of the Christian catacombs and stopped dead in our tracks at the engineering wonder of the Colosseum.
Two thousand years of history was a lot to absorb in two days, but we opened our minds and tried to take it all in, experiencing the best Rome had to offer and none of the petty theft or pickpocketing we had been warned of.
INGA AKSAMIT
San Rafael, CA