Getting into Bethlehem and Palestine

I traveled to Israel/Palestine under the auspices of the United Methodist Church, so I am writing not to recommend a tour company but to urge travelers to see all of this beautiful and historical area — not just what the Israel Government Tourist Office wants you to see.

The problem, of course, is that the “borders” of both “countries” are so entangled, and the policing of them is so draconian, that it sometimes is difficult to see historical Palestine. The tourist office makes it pretty easy to see most of the traditional Biblical locations (Bethlehem excepted), but the same can’t be said for access to places in the Occupied Territories.

That is why I believe it is important to be in contact with NGOs or others working in those areas who can help people see the country beneath the politics.

A small example — tourist groups often are discouraged from entering Bethlehem, being told it is “too dangerous.” I found that it was not — and you can’t say you’ve seen Israel if you haven’t been to Bethlehem!

As someone whose early views of Israel were shaped by Leon Uris’ “Exodus” (both the book and the movie — remember Paul Newman’s gorgeous blue eyes?!), my eyes were opened when I visited Palestinian villages and Israeli “settlements” and talked to proponents for peace, Israeli and Palestinian alike.

My last visit was a “study trip,” Feb. 14-28, 2008, arranged through the General Board of Global Ministries of the United Methodist Church, and it included participants from all over the United States and a number of other countries (Germany, Estonia, Philippines and Kenya). We paid about $1,500 for lodging, meals and all internal transportation. Airfare (Portland-Newark-Tel Aviv) was around $1,000.

The ecumenical organization Sabeel (P.O. Box 49084, Jerusalem 91491, Palestine via Israel; phone [+972] 2 5327136, fax 5327137, www.sabeel.org or www.fosna.org… or, in the US, PO Box 9186, Portland, OR 97207; 503/653-6625), which includes Desmond Tutu among its patrons, would be happy to provide information and/or organize visits to the places that tourists don’t usually see. They also offer study trips on which participants stay in local hotels (including in Bethlehem), visit the “tourist” spots and talk to the people.

DEE POUJADE

Portland, OR