Easter Island dining

My partner, John, and I, were on Easter Island, Feb. 6-11, 2008, attending this year’s Tapati Festival. In Hanga Roa, the island’s only town, we found that restaurants often serve only one item.

For example, at La Tinita (Te Pito Te Henua street) I ordered tuna, which was ordered by the man at the next table, too, and John ordered the fish of the day, which was called toremo. The waitress diligently wrote down everyone’s orders and side dishes. We then all got the exact same meal: toremo, French fries and a salad. Dinner for the two of us cost about CLP14,000 (near $30).

Another day, we walked into a different restaurant, asked what kind of fish was on the menu and were told, “Today we’re serving chicken and rice.”

As a result, when I saw that the sandwich board outside Tavaye (Atamu Tekena street) said they had tuna empanadas, I decided to ask first. The owner/waiter snapped at me, saying he had everything on the menu because he cooked everything fresh. So we sat down at one of the three tables.

When the owner took our drink order, the only juice offered was pineapple (not my favorite), so only John ordered one. When it came, I tasted it and it turned out to be fresh-squeezed and delicious, so I asked for one.

That set off a tirade in Spanish: “First you don’t want it, now you do. Make up your mind. I’m the cook, the bartender and the cashier. I’m busy, so you’ll just have to wait.” Then, pointing to a couple across from us, he said, “They were here first, so I have to cook their meal first!”

The other couple told us he was always like this but that the food was great, so we decided to wait.

After a while I decided to check our e-mail at the Internet café next door. As I left, two women sat down at the last table.

When I returned, John told me that the waiter had come over and, pointing with a stabbing finger at my empty chair, yelled at it in Spanish. John didn’t know what the waiter said but assumed he was not happy that I had left.

I noticed that the two women were gone. Apparently, the waiter was upset by their presence, took down the sandwich board and kicked them out!

It made for a riotous and interesting experience. To top it off, the food was excellent (about $10 for two).

GAIL RIBA

Clearwater, FL