Tips for Southern Africa

Best meal — This was in Cape Town at the Khaya-Nyama Game Restaurant (267 Long St., Cape Town, 8001, South Africa), which served everything possible, such as buffalo, ostrich, warthog, etc. The average price was $20. Small place; reservations almost a necessity.

Best deal — This was with Explore, out of London, going overlanding for 28 days for $3,000 plus $500 local payment. We were camping for 24 days and had four nights in hotels. All campsites had hot showers. There were some chances to upgrade to hotels or fixed tents.

I have “done” 23 trips with Explore. I book through Adventure Center (1311 63rd St., Ste. 200, Emeryville, CA 94608; 800/487-1600, www.adventurecenter.com).

Best time to go — I went in December ’07 and found Botswana wet, rainy, drizzly, damp and a little chilly. Conversely, Namibia was quite hot and dry; sometimes I felt it was too hot to do much. A much better time would be spring or fall, perhaps October or April.

Best travel tip — I got this one from our Cape Town tour driver. He said I looked “properly shabby” when I went into Zimbabwe.

I had expensive cameras in a grubby green backpack (I use Leicas and Kodak 100VS slide film; I do not do computers), and my photo vest had duct tape patches, as did my pants. My straw hat had weathered several rainstorms (not too well), and the brim was beginning to shred.

When I crossed the border back into Zambia, although it was a zoo no one gave me a second glance!

SAMANTHA SARTAIN

Colorado Springs, CO