San Blas Islands, Panama

(Fourth of four parts, jump to part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4).

Just prior to the conclusion of my two weeks in Panama as a guest of tour operator Panama Jones, I had the opportunity to fly to the San Blas Islands and overnight at Dolphin Island Lodge.

These islands stretch along some 200 miles of Panama’s Caribbean coastline and are part of a large Kuna Yala reservation which extends from the seaward continental shelf to the top of the jungle-clad continental divide several miles inland.

This was my chance to glean some insight into the colorful Kuna Indian culture, which was rapidly disappearing until a rebirth began in 1992 as a result of the Kunas’ becoming directly involved in developing indigenous tourism. The Kuna are a short, stocky people who live simple lives and whose ancestors peopled these shores long before Europeans discovered the New World.

Dolphin Island Lodge

My 24-hour exposure to Kuna culture included an overnight at Dolphin Island Lodge on a small island operated by a tourism-savvy Kuna elder, Geronimo, and his family.

Their comfortable, new yet completely rustic beachfront thatch-roofed bungalows, complete with hammock-enhanced, open-air, covered verandas, provided a dreamscape setting for timeless escapist imaginings. (We were advised that about 80% of the Kunas in the area sleep in hammocks.)

Happily, the lodge’s all-inclusive rate of $124 per person (double occupancy) per night included partaking of fresh lobster both for lunch and dinner in the breezy, open-air restaurant.

Kuna dress

The tribal finery of the brightly dressed Kuna women is, to the surprise of visitors, actual everyday dress in the islands. It typically consists of an appliquéd mola blouse, gold rings, a long skirt and a yellow-and-red headdress, with beads or gold-colored ornaments adorning the neck, arm and ankle.

Visitors are typically expected to pay a dollar for posed photos, as the money is a meaningful source of individual income in an environment where earning opportunities are few.
We were treated to a demonstration of mola making. The impressive multilayered fabric creations feature a variety of stitching patterns, colors, symbols and designs. Molas are popular gift acquisitions for visitors.

The Kuna lifestyle

The Kuna culture is, for the most part, a self-governing, virtually autonomous society with most decisions being made in village congress house meetings by elders. We visited a densely inhabited neighboring island where a walking tour revealed the stark cultural cooperative realities of intensely compact island living. Even in this crowded environment, I noticed many dogs as pets in the village and they were clearly revered.

The Kuna live on islands out of the necessity to escape the unbearable heat and insects of the mainland. They travel to the mainland daily by cayuco, or dugout canoe, the women and children to wash and play in the freshwater rivers and the men to cultivate crops of yucca, coconuts and corn as well as to fish or trade with neighboring islanders. We saw a few small trading boats arriving from Colombia during our island touring.

Air Panama

During my May ’06 Panama adventure, I had the opportunity to fly Air Panama from Panama City to Bocos del Toro, then on to David, back to Panama City and later round trip to the San Blas Islands. These five flights were on four different types of prop aircraft, all of which were comfortable and flew low enough to offer great views of the terra and sea below.

In Panama City, all domestic flights originate from the Albrook Airport, which is closer and definitely more convenient to the city than the new international airport. Air Panama, in my experience, provides a very user-friendly product.

InterContinental Playa Bonita

At the end of my stay in Panama, I had the opportunity to tour the gorgeous new Intercontinental Playa Bonita Resort & Spa, located on a secluded private beach surrounded by undeveloped forest yet only a 20-minute drive from the center of Panama City.

For those who would like to luxuriate for a day or two at the conclusion of an on-the-go Panama adventure, it seems a perfect place.

The Panama Explorer Tour

Simply stated, Panama’s diverse attractions require more time than almost all foreign visitors allow. Panama Jones offers a 12-day/11-night “Panama Explorer Tour” which truly provides in-depth exposure to the best of Panama’s offerings.

The tour is led by Panama Jones owner and longtime Panama resident Winston Rice, with departures scheduled for Dec. 7-18, 2006, and Feb. 8-19, April 12-23, July 12-23 and Oct. 11-22, 2007. Including all internal flights and all touring and meals as listed in the itinerary, the price is $3,565 per person, double occupancy.

For information regarding this tour or any type of visit to Panama, contact Panama Jones (Box 130, Clarita, OK 74535; call 888/726-2621, e-mail info@panamacanal.com or visit www.panamacanal.com).

(Fourth of four parts, jump to part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4).