Basque Spain and France, the Ghan, air vs. rail in Europe

STEVE, I want to travel only in the Basque country in northern Spain and France. Cobblestone Travel in New Orleans suspended business because of Katrina, and they were Basque specialists. Can you name another way to see this Basque area without other Spain highlights? — Larry I. Epstine, Fremont, CA

DEAR LARRY, I tried contacting Cobblestone Travel, but, as you indicated, Katrina may have done them in. There is a company in San Sebastian that should be able to help you: Tenedor Tours (P.O. Box 5070, San Sebastian, Spain; phone/fax +34 943 313 929).

I spoke with the owner, Gabriella de Aguirre, and she said the firm is a reception tour operator that specializes in Basque area tours for small groups and individuals. (A reception operator, or inbound tour operator, sets up or provides transportation and other travel arrangements in a specific area only, as opposed to an outbound operator that sends people places.)

Tenedor Tours owns two 7-passenger Mercedes vans and hires larger ones if necessary. Gabriella is originally from New York but married a Spaniard and has lived and run their company in that part of Spain for about 16 years. Their website, www.tenedortours.com, shows just some of their suggested itineraries.

STEVE, have you heard about the new train from Adelaide to Darwin? Does it stop for the sights in Alice Springs? — Phyllis O. Whitten, Medina, WA

DEAR PHYLLIS, yes, I have and, yes, they do. It’s called the Ghan, and, after nearly 70 years of their dreaming about having a transcontinental train all the way to Darwin, service started in 2004.

According to the current timetable, the Ghan departs Adelaide Fridays and Sundays at 5:15 p.m., arriving in Alice Springs the next morning at 11:55. The Ghan doesn’t depart Alice Springs until 4:10 p.m., giving passengers each a chance to take one of several optional sightseeing tours ranging from 25 to 150 Australian dollars (near US$19-$113).

The next day the train also stops at Katherine for about four hours, where passengers can take any of several off-train tours, including a gorge boat cruise, helicopter flight or bus tour, before continuing on to arrive in Darwin at 4:30 that afternoon.

The train has two levels of service. A one-way seat in the Red Kangaroo section (second class) costs about Aus$480 (US$362). For Aus$1,460 (US$1,101) you are still in second class, but you can have a private cabin, twin share, with bunk-style beds and with toilets and showers located at the end of each carriage.

At Aus$1,890 (US$1,425) you get the Gold Kangaroo service (first class), including all meals, special amenities, steward service and a private toilet and shower in your cabin. Beyond this, add another Aus$590 and you’ll get Deluxe Gold, featuring a double-size cabin, a double bed rather than bunks, video TV and a stocked bar.

One Australian dollar is equivalent to about US75¢. Tour operators to Australia, such as Swain or Qantas Vacations, are bookable through travel agents and offer prearranged rail tours or may be able to include the Ghan in your custom itinerary.

STEVE, I have traveled in Europe for 30 years by train pass and have found it the only way to go. I just returned from Europe, where I traveled on a pass good for any five days within a one-month period. It cost $550. During my visit, I was going to buy an extra train ticket from Venice to Copenhagen, which would take 11 hours and cost $240. I decided to fly instead and the ticket cost me $40 plus $56 in taxes ($96 total). It was a flight of one hour and 37 minutes, and I got beer and goodies for $4. How can you justify traveling by train anymore in Europe? — Bob Sailor, Murrieta, CA

DEAR BOB, it’s hard, especially since traveling in Europe by rail used to be so very much cheaper than flying. But airlines in Europe are deregulated, meaning bargains in some markets.

Just for fun, let’s try a justification.

In Venice, because of security, you’ll need to allow plenty of check-in time at the airport, typically at least an hour or two. On arrival in Copenhagen by plane, you’ll be at the airport rather than in the heart of town, so after waiting a half hour to 45 minutes for your baggage, it’ll still take up to 30 minutes to reach the train station.

So, let’s see, the train takes 11 hours, but when you add up the travel time by air (which is actually quoted as two hours and five minutes, gate to gate), flying will nevertheless consume at least four hours.

The two airlines that offer nonstop service are SAS-Scandinavian and Sterling Airlines. Sterling is cheapest, by a few dollars, and offers two flights a week, with the Wednesday flight being the least expensive. So that they’ll make a profit, they quote at least 20 different one-way fares, ranging from $45 to $488 plus tax, depending upon when you are traveling, how far ahead you buy and what’s still available at time of booking.

In June, for example, the lowest seems to be €84 (near $102) plus tax on the dates I checked. The Wednesday flight departs Venice at 8:35 p.m. and arrives Copenhagen at 10:40 p.m., which means it’ll be midnight or later by the time you reach the train station.

I trust you on the cost of the train, but I’ll bet you can’t always beat it by flying.

Now, here’s my clincher. Which is more enjoyable: looking down on cloud tops from a cramped seat or leisurely soaking up the sights of charming cities and verdant fields, with an opportunity to drink more than one beer and maybe even converse with an affable stranger?

After all, which is more important, the journey or the destination?

—Ask Steve is written by Steve Venables.